Decorative cosmetics are cosmetic products such as make-up used to decorate and change the appearance. Examples of decorative cosmetics could be: make-up, carnival make-up or professional make-up (theatrical).
AllergyCertifieds criteria are made in order to minimize the risk of getting skin allergy (contact dermatitis).
Make-up often contain different allergens. For example a substance such as perfume, which is unnecessary for the function of the product, and thus can be removed from the product without having any influence on the properties of the product. However, it may also be dyes/colorants, which have an essential function in make-up and therefore are not possible to remove. The problem with dye is often not the actual colour, but impurities in the colour. For example black and brown dyes contain iron oxide that can contain the allergen nickel. Nickel is a natural component of iron oxide and therefore it can not be avoided. By choosing dyes where nickel is bound to the colour the risk will lower. Studies have shown that 5 ppm is safe for people without allergy and a level of 1 ppm nickel is safe for people allergic to nickel. Therefore AllergyCertified allow max1ppm sweat soluble nickel in makeup.
If a dye has no NOAEL value/safe concentration, it must be substituted with a dye that does.
Leave-on or rinse-off
Cosmetic products are divided into leave-on and rinse-off products. A leave- on product is a product that is intended to stay on the skin and is not to be washed off again; an example could be cream, body lotion, and deodorant. A rinse-off product is a product like shampoo or soap meant to be washed off again (short exposure). The risk of allergy is higher in a leave-on product because of a longer exposure. The criteria for leave-on products are therefore much stricter than rinse-off.
Make-up can be both leave-on and rinse-off. Studies show that not all women wash of their make-up in the evening before going to bed. So in order to make sure the make-up is as safe as possible AllergyCertified make-up will always be assessed as leave-on products.
Requirements for certification
AllergyCertified requires full knowledge about the product as well as a product recipe. This includes all the INCI names, concentrations and MSDS, and for dyes TDS. If a product contains substances with allergenic impurities such as nickel in iron oxide, AllergyCertified needs a test of the impurity in the substance. If such a test does not exist AllergyCertified will need an external test of the content.
AllergyCertified has to be told about all alterations of a product. AllergyCertified can ask for new documentation/tests if a new supplier of dyes or preservatives is used.
Preservatives allowed in AllergyCertified make-up
The following substances may at present be used. The list is not definitive:
-Potassium Sorbate E202
Preservatives not allowed in AllergyCertified make-up
The following chemicals are not allowed in AllergyCertified make-up.
The list is not definitive:
-Kathon a mixture of MI/MCI
Sunfilters are not allowed in decorative cosmetics, since it has no function of the product and increases the risk of allergies.
AllergyCertified make-up/decorative cosmetics can contain only adhesives that are assessed not to cause allergies or other discomfort during use.
Rosin with CAS 8050-09-7 is highly allergenic and can not be used. Adhesives associated with this can cause cross-reactions and must be assessed separately.
If you want to criteria as pdf click her: Criteria for decorative cosmetics