What Is Fragrance?

Fragrance is one of the oldest human-made mixtures of scent substances. It can be synthetically produced or derived from natural sources such as essential oils from flowers and plants. A fragrance may consist of ten to hundreds of different scent compounds.

Depending on the product type, fragrance is used in different concentrations. The highest concentration is found in perfume itself, followed by eau de parfum (approximately 15–20%), eau de toilette (2–6%), and eau de cologne (2–4%). Fragranced creams and lotions generally contain lower concentrations, often around 0.1–0.3%.

In Europe, the use of fragrance is regulated. On cosmetic products and detergents, fragrance is listed as ‘parfum’ or ‘fragrance’. In food, beverages, and dental products, it is indicated as ‘aroma’. Since 2005, certain fragrance substances must also be declared individually by name when present above specified concentrations. This list has expanded in recent years based on scientific advice and now includes 82 fragrance substances known for their allergenic potential.

What Is the Problem?

Fragrance adds a pleasant scent but may also cause fragrance allergy. This form of skin allergy is not inherited but can developed by everyone through repeated exposure.

European population studies show that approximately 4–5% of adults have a positive patch test reaction to fragrance substances, indicating contact allergy to fragrance. In dermatology clinics, up to 16% of eczema patients are sensitive to fragrance.

When the skin barrier is weakened, fragrance can make existing skin problems worse.

The real prevalence may be even higher, as not everyone with skin symptoms sees a doctor and fragrance allergy is not always identified.

In practice, testing is usually performed with Fragrance Mix I and Fragrance Mix II, together covering fourteen fragrance substances. Because perfumes may contain hundreds of components, some fragrance allergies may remain undetected. A Danish study showed that testing with 26 fragrance substances identified 40% more patients with fragrance allergy compared to testing with Fragrance Mix I and II alone.

The profile of fragrance allergy has also changed. Previously most common among older women, it is now also diagnosed in men, teenagers, and even young children from just three years old.

Synthetic or Natural Fragrance

Many people believe that natural fragrances are less allergenic than synthetic ones. For allergy development, however, origin makes no difference. Some of the most allergenic fragrance substances are of natural origin. Linalool is a well-known example and is chemically almost identical whether natural or synthetic.

AllergyCertified

Fragrance substances are among the leading causes of contact allergy. For this reason, AllergyCertified does not allow any fragrance substances in certified products. This requirement applies not only to the finished product but also to raw materials and potential impurities.

In the EDEN Fragrance Study, conducted in five European countries, daily exposure to fragranced products was assessed. The Netherlands showed the highest total exposure, mainly due to frequent use of fragranced leave-on products that remain on the skin. Prolonged exposure was associated with an increased risk of contact allergy.

3 Tips

• If you wish to use perfume, spray it on your hair or clothing rather than directly on your skin.
• Fragrance is also present in products where it has no functional role, such as mascara or dishwashing liquid.
• Look for products carrying the AllergyCertified logo.